My old enemies, ankle pain and knee pain, were back this morning. I thought about the road ahead, where I would take public transportation wherever possible, but would still have to walk a great deal. I thought about the long stretches with no buses or trains in western Shikoku, and the mountains I would have to climb in Ehime and Kagawa. I imagined myself at the top of a mountain in the middle of nowhere, finding that my knee was in too much pain to descend, but going down anyway and feeling my IT band snap. In the end I decided to call it quits. I took a bus back home again, and decided to return to work next week.
It's frustrating being set back by physical pain, but I learned some lessons for next time. I need shoes with extra-soft "heel counters" (I learned that's what you call the part of the back of the shoe that keeps the heel in the heel box) or sandals with good soles. I might need a knee support or strap to go over my IT band, too.
To stop was a tough decision to make. It's been an incredible journey. It was good meeting so many people, pilgrims and others. Walking 15 miles every day, I feel the healthiest that I've ever felt. The chanting and worshiping at temples was spiritually cleansing. Skinny dipping in pristine mountain streams was fun, too.
After I resolve my ankle and knee problems, I will continue walking on weekends. I'll update this blog again when I do. I hope to someday finish the pilgrimage, and maybe I'll even do it for a second time someday.
I've given it my best shot, and I haven't given up for good. I'll be back!
今朝、「膝の痛み」と「足首の痛み」という宿敵が戻って来ました。それで、これから先の道のことを考えてみました。出来るだけ公共交通を使うつもりですが、それでもたくさん歩かなければなりません。バスや電車がない西四国の道のこと、そして今度登らなければならない、愛媛や香川の高い山のことを考えました。どこか山奥の山上に着いて、膝が痛くなって下れないのに、無理に下って腸脛靱帯を破ってしまう自分を想像しました。結局辞めることにしたのです。
バスに乗って、家に戻って、来週から仕事に戻ることにしたのです。
痛みで挫折するのは嫌ですが、次回のための勉強になりました。踵の後ろが柔らかい靴か、踵がないサンダルがいります。膝サポートもいるかもしれません。
辞めるという決断をするのは難しかったです。今までは素晴らしい旅でした。遍路さんなど、いろんな人に出会えたのは良かったです。毎日20キロ歩いていると、とても健康な気分になります。お寺でお参りしたり、お経を歌ったりすることで、精神が清浄化される気がします。山の中の澄んだ川でスッポンポンで泳ぐのも楽しかったです。
膝と足首の痛みを解決したら、また週末などに歩くつもりです。その時またブログを更新します。いつかお遍路を最後までやり遂げたいし、いつか二度目やるかもしれません。
力のある限り頑張りました。まだ諦めていません。必ずお遍路道に戻って来ます！！
2010年9月30日木曜日
2010年9月29日水曜日
36番青龍寺へ
I got started early today. It feels good beginning your day at 6.
今日は早く歩き始めました。六時に一日を始めるのはなかなか気持ちいいものです。
Tanemaji, number 34.
34番種間寺
It was a bit of a hike up to Seiryuji, number 35. There was a nice view.
35番青龍寺まではちょっとした登りがありました。眺めが綺麗でした。
The monk at this temple gave me a hand towel as settai. Settai from a temple, that's a first! Thanks, Seiryuji!
ここのお寺のお坊そんから接待で手拭いをもらいました。お寺からお接待なんて、初めてです。青龍寺、ありがとう！
I stopped at a convenience store to buy some chocolate, and the clerk gave me a bottle of tea as osettai! Wow! I'm in luck today.
コンビニに寄ってチョコを買ったら、接待でお茶をもらいました！ワイ、今日はついているな。３Ｆ最高‼
A pleasant brook.
きれいな小川。
A long walk brought me to Usa. (Yes, "Usa." Long ago when Japanese manufacture had a poor reputation, goods were stamped with "made in Usa" to trick foreign buyers.)
ずっと歩いて行ったら、宇佐に着きました。(昔、に本製品の評判が悪かった時代、外国の消費者を騙すために製品に「made in Usa」と書いたとか。)
Usa whales.
宇佐の鯨
The pagoda at the base of Shoryuji, number 36.
36番青龍寺の下の五重塔
Tonight I'm staying at an inn again. Expensive, but the view is amazing and the food delicious.
今晩も宿に泊まります。高いけど眺めがいいし、食べ物が美味しいです。土佐国民宿舎です。ススメです！
The rooms are nice, too. This is a typical room for Japanese inns.
部屋もきれいです。
I walked 30 kilometers today. So much for my plan to walk shorter distances. But tomorrow I plan to hitch a ferry and a bus to the next temple.
今日は30キロ歩きました。もっと短い距離を歩くという予定がどうなったでしょうか。しかし明日はフェリーとバスで次のお寺に行く予定です。
今日は早く歩き始めました。六時に一日を始めるのはなかなか気持ちいいものです。
Tanemaji, number 34.
34番種間寺
It was a bit of a hike up to Seiryuji, number 35. There was a nice view.
35番青龍寺まではちょっとした登りがありました。眺めが綺麗でした。
The monk at this temple gave me a hand towel as settai. Settai from a temple, that's a first! Thanks, Seiryuji!
ここのお寺のお坊そんから接待で手拭いをもらいました。お寺からお接待なんて、初めてです。青龍寺、ありがとう！
I stopped at a convenience store to buy some chocolate, and the clerk gave me a bottle of tea as osettai! Wow! I'm in luck today.
コンビニに寄ってチョコを買ったら、接待でお茶をもらいました！ワイ、今日はついているな。３Ｆ最高‼
A pleasant brook.
きれいな小川。
A long walk brought me to Usa. (Yes, "Usa." Long ago when Japanese manufacture had a poor reputation, goods were stamped with "made in Usa" to trick foreign buyers.)
ずっと歩いて行ったら、宇佐に着きました。(昔、に本製品の評判が悪かった時代、外国の消費者を騙すために製品に「made in Usa」と書いたとか。)
Usa whales.
宇佐の鯨
The pagoda at the base of Shoryuji, number 36.
36番青龍寺の下の五重塔
Tonight I'm staying at an inn again. Expensive, but the view is amazing and the food delicious.
今晩も宿に泊まります。高いけど眺めがいいし、食べ物が美味しいです。土佐国民宿舎です。ススメです！
The rooms are nice, too. This is a typical room for Japanese inns.
部屋もきれいです。
I walked 30 kilometers today. So much for my plan to walk shorter distances. But tomorrow I plan to hitch a ferry and a bus to the next temple.
今日は30キロ歩きました。もっと短い距離を歩くという予定がどうなったでしょうか。しかし明日はフェリーとバスで次のお寺に行く予定です。
2010年9月28日火曜日
Return of the pilgrim
I'm back on the road!
道に戻りました！
I took it easy for two weeks, but now I'm walking again. It's good to be back on the pilgrim path!
二週間休んだけど、また歩き始めました。お遍路道に戻って、とても爽快です！
I had tendonitis in my knee, but it's better now. From now on I'm going to walk at a slower pace and sometimes take the train and bus.
膝のじん帯が炎症していたけど、もう治りました。これからはもっと遅いペースで歩き、そして時々バスや電車も利用します。
I really appreciate all the emotional support people have been giving me. I want to say thanks, because I wouldn't be able to do it without you all!
いろんな人々からたくさん支えてもらって、ホンとにありがたいです。皆がいなかったらお遍路が出来ないき、ありがとう‼
Earlier this week I walked from my house in Yasu to Kochi city with a friend who came to visit from Tokyo. Here we are, Mr. M. and I, at number 30, Zenraku-
ji.
今週は東京から来てくれた友達と一緒に自分の家から高知市まで歩きました。僕とＭさん、三十番善楽寺です:
We walked through field and forest, and played a little golf, too. Thanks for making it a great week, Danny!
野原と森を歩き、ゴルフも少ししました。楽しい一週間にしてくれてありがとう、マック！
I walked on to the next temple by myself. Up a hill...
次のお寺には一人で歩きました。山を上がって、
Through the fantastic Makino botanical garden...
素敵な牧野植物園を通って、
And there was Chikurinji, number 31.
そこに三十一番竹林寺がありました。
At night I partied with some friends. (There's no rule against pilgrims drinking, and if there were I would be guilty of breaking it every day.) Happy birthday, Saki-san!
夜は友達とワイワイ。お遍路さんがお酒を飲んじゃいけないという決まりがないし、もしあったとしても僕は毎日破っています。
サキちゃん、誕生日おめでとう！
Then today I drove back to Chikurinji and said goodbye to Danny.
そして今日竹林寺に戻ってＭさんとお別れ。
It was a short walk to the Kagami river. I took a ferry across. It was a free ride!
鏡川まで一息でした。フェリーでただで渡りました！
I saw lots of flying fish.
飛魚をたくさん見ました。
I arrived at number 33, Sekkeiji, at just before 5.
五時ごろ33番雪渓寺に着きました。
The inn I'm staying at tonight is really fantastic. The inn keeper washed and folded my clothes for me and made me this delicious dinner.
こんばん泊まっている宿がとても素敵です。選択物までしてくれて、そして美味しい夕食を作ってくれました。鰹叩き(右)が美味しかったです。
Tomorrow I'll aim for number 36!
明日は36番を目指します！
道に戻りました！
I took it easy for two weeks, but now I'm walking again. It's good to be back on the pilgrim path!
二週間休んだけど、また歩き始めました。お遍路道に戻って、とても爽快です！
I had tendonitis in my knee, but it's better now. From now on I'm going to walk at a slower pace and sometimes take the train and bus.
膝のじん帯が炎症していたけど、もう治りました。これからはもっと遅いペースで歩き、そして時々バスや電車も利用します。
I really appreciate all the emotional support people have been giving me. I want to say thanks, because I wouldn't be able to do it without you all!
いろんな人々からたくさん支えてもらって、ホンとにありがたいです。皆がいなかったらお遍路が出来ないき、ありがとう‼
Earlier this week I walked from my house in Yasu to Kochi city with a friend who came to visit from Tokyo. Here we are, Mr. M. and I, at number 30, Zenraku-
ji.
今週は東京から来てくれた友達と一緒に自分の家から高知市まで歩きました。僕とＭさん、三十番善楽寺です:
We walked through field and forest, and played a little golf, too. Thanks for making it a great week, Danny!
野原と森を歩き、ゴルフも少ししました。楽しい一週間にしてくれてありがとう、マック！
I walked on to the next temple by myself. Up a hill...
次のお寺には一人で歩きました。山を上がって、
Through the fantastic Makino botanical garden...
素敵な牧野植物園を通って、
And there was Chikurinji, number 31.
そこに三十一番竹林寺がありました。
At night I partied with some friends. (There's no rule against pilgrims drinking, and if there were I would be guilty of breaking it every day.) Happy birthday, Saki-san!
夜は友達とワイワイ。お遍路さんがお酒を飲んじゃいけないという決まりがないし、もしあったとしても僕は毎日破っています。
サキちゃん、誕生日おめでとう！
Then today I drove back to Chikurinji and said goodbye to Danny.
そして今日竹林寺に戻ってＭさんとお別れ。
It was a short walk to the Kagami river. I took a ferry across. It was a free ride!
鏡川まで一息でした。フェリーでただで渡りました！
I saw lots of flying fish.
飛魚をたくさん見ました。
I arrived at number 33, Sekkeiji, at just before 5.
五時ごろ33番雪渓寺に着きました。
The inn I'm staying at tonight is really fantastic. The inn keeper washed and folded my clothes for me and made me this delicious dinner.
こんばん泊まっている宿がとても素敵です。選択物までしてくれて、そして美味しい夕食を作ってくれました。鰹叩き(右)が美味しかったです。
Tomorrow I'll aim for number 36!
明日は36番を目指します！
2010年9月17日金曜日
Some photos
ご無沙汰しております。
遍路はやっぱり難しい。
膝を痛めたから月曜日にバスで家に帰った。今週ずっと休んだ。回復したらまた歩いてみるつもり。
Here are some photos from last weekend.
先週末の写真
Ikumi, the promised land
生見、約束の地
The zenkonyado I stayed at on Sunday. A zenkonyado is a small hut next to a temple where passing pilgrims can stay a night.
善根宿
Koya-kun, mascot and guide
マスカットであり、案内人であるこうやくん
遍路はやっぱり難しい。
膝を痛めたから月曜日にバスで家に帰った。今週ずっと休んだ。回復したらまた歩いてみるつもり。
Here are some photos from last weekend.
先週末の写真
Ikumi, the promised land
生見、約束の地
The zenkonyado I stayed at on Sunday. A zenkonyado is a small hut next to a temple where passing pilgrims can stay a night.
善根宿
Koya-kun, mascot and guide
マスカットであり、案内人であるこうやくん
The limits of ambition
I must apologize to my faithful readers, who I have kept in suspense for too long. It's time for an update on this pilgrim's progress. What's been going on this week?
It was a blow, but I realized I had to take a rest. I rested for two days in Hiwasa and Ikumi, but it wasn't enough. On Monday, after walking south 20 km from Ikumi, I got on a bus and went back to my apartment in Kochi, feeling defeated.
People in their 60s and 70s make this journey with no difficulty. "Why can't I?" I wondered. Surely I'm not weaker than them. Maybe they have more flexibility, or walking experience. Or maybe the reason runs deeper than physical differences.
I started off walking for myself, for my experience, to broaden my understanding. But people of faith who walk it see the temples and the Kobo-Daishi and the pilgrimage as the main entities, not themselves. The pilgrimage is holy, and that's why they do it. They carry wishes, but in the main they pray to pay their respects. Because they are egoless, they don't rush to get to the next destination; after all, it's the journey that's important. They don't walk through pain, because they'll get there just the same. And they get there because they have faith, which trumps physical strength and personal ambition.
Most importantly it's not a race for them, so they pace themselves well. But I tried to keep up with my schedule and with other people, and I think that's where I went wrong. I injured myself because I didn't pace myself properly.
Pace is important.
My knee's not bad, but I don't know how long it will take to get better. Until it gets better I'm going to rest. When I start again I hope I'll be stronger and more flexible, both physically and mentally. I might have to change my plans, and do it in stretches rather than all at once, but that's okay, too.
That's it for now.
It was a blow, but I realized I had to take a rest. I rested for two days in Hiwasa and Ikumi, but it wasn't enough. On Monday, after walking south 20 km from Ikumi, I got on a bus and went back to my apartment in Kochi, feeling defeated.
People in their 60s and 70s make this journey with no difficulty. "Why can't I?" I wondered. Surely I'm not weaker than them. Maybe they have more flexibility, or walking experience. Or maybe the reason runs deeper than physical differences.
I started off walking for myself, for my experience, to broaden my understanding. But people of faith who walk it see the temples and the Kobo-Daishi and the pilgrimage as the main entities, not themselves. The pilgrimage is holy, and that's why they do it. They carry wishes, but in the main they pray to pay their respects. Because they are egoless, they don't rush to get to the next destination; after all, it's the journey that's important. They don't walk through pain, because they'll get there just the same. And they get there because they have faith, which trumps physical strength and personal ambition.
Most importantly it's not a race for them, so they pace themselves well. But I tried to keep up with my schedule and with other people, and I think that's where I went wrong. I injured myself because I didn't pace myself properly.
Pace is important.
My knee's not bad, but I don't know how long it will take to get better. Until it gets better I'm going to rest. When I start again I hope I'll be stronger and more flexible, both physically and mentally. I might have to change my plans, and do it in stretches rather than all at once, but that's okay, too.
That's it for now.
2010年9月12日日曜日
Sea turtle town 2
I left the sea turtle town of Hiwasa behind me and am now heading south toward Ikumi, surfer land.
ウミガメの町である日和佐を後にして、今サーファーの領土の生見へと南に向かっています。
The beach this morning
今朝の海
Yakuo-ji
薬王寺
I hope to start walking again tomorrow.
明日からまた歩こうかなと思っています。
ウミガメの町である日和佐を後にして、今サーファーの領土の生見へと南に向かっています。
The beach this morning
今朝の海
Yakuo-ji
薬王寺
I hope to start walking again tomorrow.
明日からまた歩こうかなと思っています。
2010年9月11日土曜日
Sea turtle town
I took the bus to number 21 (Tairyu-ji, "fat dragon temple"), back to the city, then onto another bus, then along a river up into a mountain valley to the small town of Naka, on the other side of the mountains from Kakurinji. It was a short walk to the ropeway, which proudly announces itself as the longest ropeway in Japan. Into the gondola, and there were the couple who gave me a ride down the mountain yesterday! They were incredibly nice, and today they offered to give me a ride to number 22, Byodoji. I gladly accepted, and after we prayed and chanted at Tairyu-ji I hitched a ride with them again. Again we prayed and chanted, this time with a group of bus pilgrims. The sutras are unfamiliar to my mouth and difficult to pronounce, so the Japanese pilgrims finish much faster than me, but it's a moving experience to chant in unison with a big group like that. I guess it's kind of comparable to singing at a church, inasmuch you have this feeling of togetherness.
The wonderful couple--Mr. and Mrs. Ohira, I learned--bought ice cream for all three of us, and then drove me 5 minutes to Aratano station, where I would take the train. Aratano was a tiny, empty platform like most of the stations around here. I love these tiny little towns, which in New England would be too small to have public transportation, just a general store and maybe a cafe, maybe a post office. I waited there an hour for the train, which filled up with high school students going from rural areas to school or to town.
A ride through forest and along the coastline to the village of Hiwasa in Minami town. Minami means beautiful waves, and it lives up to it's name. There is one of the most beautiful beaches I've seen in Japan. The caves were cool, and I considered spending the night inside them, though I decided to stay in a ryokan again.
The town was used as the set of an NHK (Japanese national TV) drama, which I often watched in the morning before work until it finished last year. I was pretty excited to be in the town where it all took place. From the TV show I knew that the town is an egg laying destination for sea turtles, and right next to my ryokan I found the sea turtle museum, with beautiful baby turtles swimming in a pool.
The temple, Yakuo-ji, was one of the most impressive I've seem so far. I'll try to get a good picture of it tomorrow. Because it was on a hill and my knee still hurts, I didn't climb the stairs up, but just got my book stamped at the base.
I still can't walk pain free, so I'm taking the train again tomorrow to Ikumi, surfer's paradise. Ikumi's famous among Kochi expats, but it will be my first time to visit. If there's a cheap inn maybe I can stay for a couple days, or just camp on the beach.
The wonderful couple--Mr. and Mrs. Ohira, I learned--bought ice cream for all three of us, and then drove me 5 minutes to Aratano station, where I would take the train. Aratano was a tiny, empty platform like most of the stations around here. I love these tiny little towns, which in New England would be too small to have public transportation, just a general store and maybe a cafe, maybe a post office. I waited there an hour for the train, which filled up with high school students going from rural areas to school or to town.
A ride through forest and along the coastline to the village of Hiwasa in Minami town. Minami means beautiful waves, and it lives up to it's name. There is one of the most beautiful beaches I've seen in Japan. The caves were cool, and I considered spending the night inside them, though I decided to stay in a ryokan again.
The town was used as the set of an NHK (Japanese national TV) drama, which I often watched in the morning before work until it finished last year. I was pretty excited to be in the town where it all took place. From the TV show I knew that the town is an egg laying destination for sea turtles, and right next to my ryokan I found the sea turtle museum, with beautiful baby turtles swimming in a pool.
The temple, Yakuo-ji, was one of the most impressive I've seem so far. I'll try to get a good picture of it tomorrow. Because it was on a hill and my knee still hurts, I didn't climb the stairs up, but just got my book stamped at the base.
I still can't walk pain free, so I'm taking the train again tomorrow to Ikumi, surfer's paradise. Ikumi's famous among Kochi expats, but it will be my first time to visit. If there's a cheap inn maybe I can stay for a couple days, or just camp on the beach.
Bus pilgrim
I never thought I would become one of them, but it happened. I've become a bus pilgrim.
Only a small fraction--probably about 1%--of pilgrims actually walk all 1200 kilometers. Most take bus tours, taxis, or drive. It's easy to see why, after having walked for a week.
I'm writing today's entry from the city bus going to temple 21. I just can't walk anymore.
Yesterday was a pleasant walk through woods and fields in rural Tokushima. It was a nice change from the city, and with the new shoes my ankle was fine. Going up the mountain to 21 was another matter, though. My left ACL started hurting, and while I was able to get to the top with the help of my staff and an extra walking stick I grabbed, there was no way I could get down to the other side. I hitchhiked back down and booked a night at an inn, where I ate my camp food and pondered what to do next.
The bus was the only solution. With ice and rest my ACL should be better in a few days; until then I'll take public transportation. It'll be a pleasure cruise. At the next temple I get to take the ropeway up!
The stairs to 20, Kakurinji. I didn't climb them.
Only a small fraction--probably about 1%--of pilgrims actually walk all 1200 kilometers. Most take bus tours, taxis, or drive. It's easy to see why, after having walked for a week.
I'm writing today's entry from the city bus going to temple 21. I just can't walk anymore.
Yesterday was a pleasant walk through woods and fields in rural Tokushima. It was a nice change from the city, and with the new shoes my ankle was fine. Going up the mountain to 21 was another matter, though. My left ACL started hurting, and while I was able to get to the top with the help of my staff and an extra walking stick I grabbed, there was no way I could get down to the other side. I hitchhiked back down and booked a night at an inn, where I ate my camp food and pondered what to do next.
The bus was the only solution. With ice and rest my ACL should be better in a few days; until then I'll take public transportation. It'll be a pleasure cruise. At the next temple I get to take the ropeway up!
The stairs to 20, Kakurinji. I didn't climb them.
2010年9月10日金曜日
挫けた
今日は日本語で書いてみます。
お遍路を始めて7日目。挫ける毎日です。歩き遍路は思ったよりずっと大変だ。とても、とても辛い。
今日は２０番である鶴林寺に着きました。標高500メートルの山です。途中で膝が痛くなって、激痛に耐えれず、山の向こうのふもとで野宿する予定を断念してしまいました。山を足で降りるのは無理だったので優しい年配の夫婦に車に乗せてもらって、元来た場所まで戻りました。今日は民宿に素泊まり。(夕ご飯はサーディンサンドを作って食べました。)明日はバスで次のお寺まで行こうと思っています。
たぶんペースが速すぎた。いままでのペースをざっと書くと、以下の通りです。
Day 1: 20 km, temples 1 to 7, camped outside
Day 2: 17 km, temples 8 to 10, stayed at onsen for free
Day 3: 16 km, 1050 m climbing, temples 11 to 12, stayed at zenkonyado
Day 4: 24 km, temples 13 to 15, stayed at zenkonyado
Day 5: 11 km, temples 16 and 17, stayed at hotel in Tokushima city
Day 6: 10 km, no temples, stayed at minshuku
Day 7 (today): 17.5 km, 500 m climbing, temples 18 to 20, sudomari at minshuku
4日目はもっと休めば良かった気がします。
今日はそんなに大変じゃないはずだったのに、膝が痛くなって、挫けました。やっぱり疲れが溜まっています。明日からは足を休む。早くまた歩けるようになりたい。。。
お遍路を始めて7日目。挫ける毎日です。歩き遍路は思ったよりずっと大変だ。とても、とても辛い。
今日は２０番である鶴林寺に着きました。標高500メートルの山です。途中で膝が痛くなって、激痛に耐えれず、山の向こうのふもとで野宿する予定を断念してしまいました。山を足で降りるのは無理だったので優しい年配の夫婦に車に乗せてもらって、元来た場所まで戻りました。今日は民宿に素泊まり。(夕ご飯はサーディンサンドを作って食べました。)明日はバスで次のお寺まで行こうと思っています。
たぶんペースが速すぎた。いままでのペースをざっと書くと、以下の通りです。
Day 1: 20 km, temples 1 to 7, camped outside
Day 2: 17 km, temples 8 to 10, stayed at onsen for free
Day 3: 16 km, 1050 m climbing, temples 11 to 12, stayed at zenkonyado
Day 4: 24 km, temples 13 to 15, stayed at zenkonyado
Day 5: 11 km, temples 16 and 17, stayed at hotel in Tokushima city
Day 6: 10 km, no temples, stayed at minshuku
Day 7 (today): 17.5 km, 500 m climbing, temples 18 to 20, sudomari at minshuku
4日目はもっと休めば良かった気がします。
今日はそんなに大変じゃないはずだったのに、膝が痛くなって、挫けました。やっぱり疲れが溜まっています。明日からは足を休む。早くまた歩けるようになりたい。。。
2010年9月9日木曜日
Out of the city limits!
It's been a tough few days, physically and emotionally. I broke down.
Yesterday as I was walking into Tokushima city, I got the sense that something wasn't right. I was having more trouble walking than usual. I sat down on a bus stop bench and then realized--I had forgotten my staff! I had no idea where or when. I felt a lump in my throat. Even if I bought a new one, it wouldn't be the same!
I thought a while, and decided to retrace my steps by taxi. 5 km back I saw it, leaning against a store where I had stopped to rest. What a huge relief! I hadn't realized how close I was to it. I carry it all day long, tapping it with every step, occasionally reading the sutra written on it when I rest, striking it when I'm angry, doing a dance when I'm bored...it was a huge shock when I thought I had lost it.
I got my cellphone's internet fixed yesterday afternoon, and stayed in a hotel for the night. I needed to stay in town to get new shoes, because the ones I had rubbed against the backs of my ankles, so my right achilles tendon was bruised and sore. I had walked too hard and too fast the day before going down the mountain, and really aggravated it. Walking barefoot was fine, and I walked barefoot a few kilometers coming into the city, but I couldn't do that forever. And while pain in other parts of the foot, like the base of the toes, can be ignored, this pain needed to be dealt with before it got worse. So this morning I hit the sports store by Tokushima station to try on new shoes.
Every pair I tried on hurt. My achilles was just too inflamed to wear anything. Damn. As I was talking with the storekeeper, describing the last few days, tears suddenly welled up and I burst out sobbing. I don't cry often--I can't remember the last time--but today I cried a typhoon. With other people staring at me....that made it even worse. I apologized, took a few deep breaths, and bought a pair of Merrill's, which hurt the least.
After I settled down, I bought a pair of heelless sandals at another shoestore and headed east, lugging the Merrill's for later use and wearing the sandals. I only had half a day left, so I decided to stay in an inn by number 18. My spirits were restored by a great lunch and getting out of the city and back to the countryside. Then I felt even better when I had a bath and a fantastic dinner.
The physical exertion of the pilgrimage accentuates my emotional ups and downs, so I have extreme highs upon reaching a destination and severe lows when something goes wrong. There's happiness and there's suffering--mostly suffering. Buddhist philosophy is all about accepting suffering, and not getting all wrought up in it. What better way to learn about suffering than walking all day every day?
I'm optimistic about tomorrow, as I have new shoes and I'll be back in the mountains, not walking through the hot, noisy city. It will be a good day.
Since I'll be in the mountains for two days, I may not have Internet. I'll probably be able to post next at 21 or 22.
Yesterday as I was walking into Tokushima city, I got the sense that something wasn't right. I was having more trouble walking than usual. I sat down on a bus stop bench and then realized--I had forgotten my staff! I had no idea where or when. I felt a lump in my throat. Even if I bought a new one, it wouldn't be the same!
I thought a while, and decided to retrace my steps by taxi. 5 km back I saw it, leaning against a store where I had stopped to rest. What a huge relief! I hadn't realized how close I was to it. I carry it all day long, tapping it with every step, occasionally reading the sutra written on it when I rest, striking it when I'm angry, doing a dance when I'm bored...it was a huge shock when I thought I had lost it.
I got my cellphone's internet fixed yesterday afternoon, and stayed in a hotel for the night. I needed to stay in town to get new shoes, because the ones I had rubbed against the backs of my ankles, so my right achilles tendon was bruised and sore. I had walked too hard and too fast the day before going down the mountain, and really aggravated it. Walking barefoot was fine, and I walked barefoot a few kilometers coming into the city, but I couldn't do that forever. And while pain in other parts of the foot, like the base of the toes, can be ignored, this pain needed to be dealt with before it got worse. So this morning I hit the sports store by Tokushima station to try on new shoes.
Every pair I tried on hurt. My achilles was just too inflamed to wear anything. Damn. As I was talking with the storekeeper, describing the last few days, tears suddenly welled up and I burst out sobbing. I don't cry often--I can't remember the last time--but today I cried a typhoon. With other people staring at me....that made it even worse. I apologized, took a few deep breaths, and bought a pair of Merrill's, which hurt the least.
After I settled down, I bought a pair of heelless sandals at another shoestore and headed east, lugging the Merrill's for later use and wearing the sandals. I only had half a day left, so I decided to stay in an inn by number 18. My spirits were restored by a great lunch and getting out of the city and back to the countryside. Then I felt even better when I had a bath and a fantastic dinner.
The physical exertion of the pilgrimage accentuates my emotional ups and downs, so I have extreme highs upon reaching a destination and severe lows when something goes wrong. There's happiness and there's suffering--mostly suffering. Buddhist philosophy is all about accepting suffering, and not getting all wrought up in it. What better way to learn about suffering than walking all day every day?
I'm optimistic about tomorrow, as I have new shoes and I'll be back in the mountains, not walking through the hot, noisy city. It will be a good day.
Since I'll be in the mountains for two days, I may not have Internet. I'll probably be able to post next at 21 or 22.
場所:恩山寺谷,小松島市,日本
2010年9月8日水曜日
Pilgrim's progress
It is my fifth day walking the 88 temple Shikoku pilgrimage in Japan, and my feet are as tired as hell.
Over a hundred thousand people, mostly Japanese buddhists, make this 1200 kilometer journey every year. I decided to become one of them, even though it meant quitting my fun and cushy three year English teaching gig. The pilgrimage will take 2 months on foot--if I'm able to finish it. In this blog I plan to record my exciting, painful, fun, embarrassing, fulfilling, and exhausting adventures on the trail.
This blog is the continuation of americanpilgrim.tumblr.com. I changed to blogger because it's more suited to this.
Over a hundred thousand people, mostly Japanese buddhists, make this 1200 kilometer journey every year. I decided to become one of them, even though it meant quitting my fun and cushy three year English teaching gig. The pilgrimage will take 2 months on foot--if I'm able to finish it. In this blog I plan to record my exciting, painful, fun, embarrassing, fulfilling, and exhausting adventures on the trail.
This blog is the continuation of americanpilgrim.tumblr.com. I changed to blogger because it's more suited to this.
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